This is the story of my first hitchhiking trip. I visited my friends in Germany winter holidays of 2007 and read "Dharma Bums." The book was very much in line with what I had been wanting. I wanted simplicity all over again. I wanted sangha. So when I got back to US and found myself some time, I decided to explore and become free. This was the last of three days.
When I woke up - must have been about 8AM - I noticed there was frost inside the bivy from my breath condensating against the coldness outside. When I opened the bivy I was confused because more ice flakes came through. Soon, I realized that it was not more frost from the outer surface of the bivy but snow! My stupid luck! With only my upper body out of the bivy, I wolfed down half-rotten banana, pieces of bread, a krispie, a scone, and milk. I was so cold that I was only occupied with moving myself again to generate some heat. I packed everything in the sack and left the site only to realize 10 minutes later that I had left my glasses somewhere back at camp. Frozen, I moved back towards the Lodge.
I found my glasses in a repairable fashion about two feet away from where I had slept. As I got back on the trail, there came this gentleman with a husky and a boxer my way. I asked him for directions and he sent me straight back down to the parkway where I started walking towards my origination. The wind blew strong against the side of mountain and the snow still continued to come down though not heavily. Aside from the wind, the experience of walking through winter mountain was new and beautiful. The snow flakes gently swept across the parkway as birds might fly over black winter seas.
I walked about two hours when this machinist from Black Mountain, Roger picked me up and gave me a ride to Black Mountain. He said he wouldn't have picked me up if it wasn't for the fact that it was so cold outside to be walking for anyone. He figured even if I was a no-good bum, I didn't deserve to be suffering that cold. I was thankful for his compassion. He dropped me off at Denny's where I had two eggs, grits, biscuit and two cups of coffee. It was the most expensive meal through the whole trip at $7.60. After the meal I felt nirvina flushing my cheeks in the warm air. You can probably imagine that I took my time getting up from the chair. I drank that coffee real slow like life.
I started hitching with a new energy and a new message on the whiteboard: SMILE. I listened to Jack Johnson, bobbed my head to the beat, and waved the sign and my big ugly smile to the drivers heading towards I40 east. A lot of people cheered me on.
The next person to pick me up was Mr. Tom Snickers, an USMC veteran. He was in MC before Vietnam era and had a step-son who worked at UNC hospital. Really nice guy. Told me to look up the Everley brothers; which reminds me that I still haven't done that. He was on his way home from the VA hospital where I had sttarted my hike the day before; he had a pacemaker. His home was in Morganton and that was where I stopped next.
Next was July. She was on her way to her hypochondriac sister who just said her goodbyes on the phone with the plan to swallow a fistful of pills. July didn't seem too worried about her sister; I assumed that her sister had been doing this kind of stuff in the past. She was taking care of her mother who suffered episodes of stroke. July herself suffered from Sjogren's disease with arthritis. She confided to me that she hopes not to die before her mother does because she was not sure if there was anyone else who would take care of her. In the end, she thought it wise to drive me 5 miles further than her sister's place just so I can collect from the 77 traffic as well. She was really sweet.
Unfortunately for me, the location was bad to hitch from as the onramp traffick from highway 77 was too fast. I improvised and got a ride from a couple of brothers who had a flat tire. I got to the next stop with them and their spare tire. I thanked them at the gas station and walked towards the onramp again. They probably thought I was crazy, and I think I would have to agree most of the time.
The next hitch was from this unlikely couple of dudes. One was a middle aged white guy and the other a teenager of southeast Asian complexion. The old guy must have been like a Big Brother because he had this mentor's tone the way he talked to the kid. He told the kid about his San Francisco days when he would hitchhike everywhere. Drove me 5 miles or so to a lazy exit where a ride proved to be difficult to find again. I lost one of my two canteens in that car. I sat down and wrote some of this journal and ate some bread and the sardines. After about an hour of fail, I decided to walk with my rucksack on I-40 East. It would seem difficult at this moment, but I had a decent whistle tune to keep me going for a while.
I couldn't have been but 10 minutes on the highway when Keith picked me up. He told me he used to hitch daily to his work. One trick he taught me was to hitch around the signs that have place names with the distance written on them. We talked about world affairs and the meaning of Hitler. He believed that Hitler went to Heaven because he taught the rest of humanity an important lesson. He reasoned it would be illogical for God to decide to make him the way he was and then punish him afterwards. Of course, this was an old arguement, but I understood what he meant. Keith handed me a bottle of water which I assume he bought for himself. I thought about this bottle of water for few seconds and realized that it symbolized the goodness of people I met on this trip. I've not done anything for the people I've met, but they have taken it upon themselves to share with me their life stories, their car, and their goodness. I told Keith about this and how this trip has helped me solidify my belief that the world is full of good people with just few apples. That hitchhiking is still possible in this age of war on terror. He seemed real happy when I shared this.
Next generosity came from Mr. Whitehead, an ex-furniture and textile salesperson. Man, he was a talker! He told me from A to Z about his life, marriages, his wives, Christianity, his home, and everything Jon Whitehead. But I didn't mind because he told them so well. After about 40 minutes of this, he asked me if I would like to join him and his beautiful Wife, Susan for dinner. Feeling rather hungry and slightly wary of the road, I readily took his offer. At Chez Whitehead, I had two servings of rice and stir-fried chicken and a blueberry muffin. Susan had a bypass surgery in August last year and was trying to eat right and exercise much, so she gave me all the food that she wanted to eat herself.
Susan must have been around mid-60s and was showing so much grace and beauty such that I imagined I would have asked her out if I was her contemporary. Or would have thought about asking her out but never do it because I am a chicken reincarnate. After dinner, Jon dropped me off by the nearest I40 onramp which sucked because there was no traffic nor light. I must have looked pretty unfriendly in that dark corner with my jacket hood on my head. I decided to walk to the next exit. I figured someone would have picked me up out of pity or that the next stop might be a better place from which to hitch. I am a man of faith, you know.
I walked for the next 30 minutes with much fail when I saw my shadow grow in front of me. I turned around in eager anticipation only to be let down by flashing blue lights from a police cruiser. I guess I could count that as a hitch, too? I was promptly transported to the next exit at a gas station where another bum was trying to hitch. Poor guy was so cold and out of fortune. I would have given him a ride myself if I was driving. After brief exchanges about our hitches of the day (it was funny how we talked like two fishers might talk about their day's work), he walked off into the darkness and I was again left to myself and the road home.
This - the last stop - was the most trying. I walked to the onramp which had a street light, but it was not bright enough to dispel the distrust of the late hour (9pm in January). I left the ramp and tried my luck at a gas station with McD's. I talked to a few patrons there but no one was going East. Soon there weren't any customers, so I walked to across the street to a bigger gas station where the lights were brighter. Initially I stood in front of the store but was told to stay inside because it was too cold out. The store clerk - Christine - had a sweet southern drawl and was pregnant to 7 months or so. I was encouraged by the fact that so many truckers came through the station but I saw the west-bound trend of the trucks and learned that some gas stations serve one direction better than the other. It might also have depended on the time of the day as well. I put the rucksack on a chair and the placard on the table, "RALEIGH," so the drivers can see them as they walk in the store.
I was feeling a bit hungry again. I think the cold makes it a necessity to feed constantly because it was only two hours after the large dinner at Whitehead. There was a hot water spigot for tea, so I bought a dollar can of Vienna sausage in the station. Dunked that and ramen into my metal pot with hot water hoping it would slowly cook. Hopeful planning. My impatience got the best of me; I started picking at the sausages with plastic-straw chopsticks. Man! They were sofa-king delicious! Of course, I couldn't stop eating. I nibbled on the noodles which were still uncooked. The broth was damn good. I gave in and ate the hard noodles in the lukewarm broth with mucho gusto. After feeding my tummy, I tried to read the book but I was too tired. I felt asleep hunched over the book and the table.
I was awakened by this Mexican guy, José. He blurted something to me about witness and driving but I couldn't understand because I was still trying to figure out what was happening and where I was. There's this 15 second period after waking up when I can't understand or speak any language. Soon, I realized he was trying to give me a ride. Life came back to me and I quickly gathered my things together, threw the rucksack in the back of his GM truck, and jumped into the cabin. About five minutes into the ride, my driver tells me that he was going to Raleigh because he needed to see his probation officer. Gahaha! Imagine my apprehension, right? I started wondering what he did when he told me about getting caught for driving without license for three times. I was ambivalent about the situation because at least it wasn't assault or drugs or something, but that probably meant that he was driving without license again. Perhaps I should have offered to drive for him?
José and I shared few stories about immigrant life. I told him my stories about working with guys on contruction yard after high school and he told me about his children. He told me how he wanted to get a job and get back on track with life. I wished I knew how to console the guy, but I thought it artificial to try. I just acknowledged his story and looked at the early morning I-40 traffick. It was sparse and José drove with speed. José was a good guy in a bad situation. I felt sorry.
In the end, everything turned out well. He dropped me off where I had left my car - my yellow sports car like hotwheels. I thanked him like a brother and watched him drive off in his old black Ford truck. It was 5 AM. I got into the car shivering and drove home. I took a scalding hot shower once home to get all the road grime off me. I turned my computer on to play some music and laid in my bed - my mind still wired from the road but my body so tired and ready for rest. I thought about each and everyone I met on this trip. Faces after faces of smiles and concerns, and life meshed with health and relationship problems and hopes and dreams and everything in between and outside. I thought it so comfortable to be sleeping in a bed again. Then went to sleep with so much gratitude and warmth in my heart for the people who cared for me these past three days.